In August and September along with three friends I took on cycling the Hebridean way (HW) which is a long distance cycling route covering 10 islands of the Western Isles of Scotland also known as the Outer Hebrides.
I have to say I think this is probably the best long distance cycling route I have ever completed.
The HW passes through some of the most spectacular landscape in the UK, stretching the length of the Outer Hebrides from Vatersay in the south to the Lewis in the north following National Cycle Network 780, following both main and quiet roads. The route passes through 10 Islands linked by a combination of causeways and ferries, over rugged hills and along dazzling Atlantic coastline.
Every island has its own unique and distinctive beauty. We lost count of the number of spectacular white sandy pristine unspoilt beaches. You could be mistaken for thinking you were in Australia or the Caribbean except the difference here was the beaches were empty.
Spectacular lochs with cobalt blue water, mountains & low lying marshes which made you feel like you were cycling on water.
The weather for us was simply incredible, beautiful blue skies & sunshine almost every day. The Hebridean welcome from the locals was amazing.
I have split by blog into 2 halves, the Southern isles and the Northern isles. Link to Northern Isles here https://www.veloann.com/post/the-hebridean-way-the-northern-isles-part-2
The Southern Isles – Vatersay, Barra, Eriksay, South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist, Berneray
The southern half of the Western Isles is a necklace of islands and islets, often more water than land.
Day 1-2
Well the Outer Hebrides lives up to their its name of being remote. 32 hours of travelling to arrive! Including overnight stay. You could get to Australia in less time. We caught a train to Glasgow, then another train from Glasgow to Oban, Overnight in Oban and then 5 1/2 hour journey to Castle Bay in Barra. The ferry journey goes up past the Isle of Mull and the Scottish mainland before our arrival in Castlebay, in Barra.
Day 3 and first day of cycling – Barra – Vatersay – Eriksay – South Uist
Four islands, two causeways and one ferry – check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1828169264
We cycled down from Castle Bay to the official start point of the HW in Vatersay across the Causeway. Vatersay had the first of many of the most incredible beautiful beaches with pristine white sands and glistening turquoise water.
Vatersay
Vatersay beach & official start of HW above
We then continued back over to Barra up the West Coast along an incredibly beautiful coastline with more amazing beaches. We visited the Barra airport, where the plane lands on the beach before taking our next ferry over to Eriksay.
We only had a brief time of riding along Eriksay before cycling across the causeway over to South Uist. Rolling roads. So far the cycling feels very remote with long stretches of single track roads / passing places, South Uist itself being very watery and low lying, before reaching our stop at Daliburgh.
My friend Steph summed up Day 1 perfectly,
“Wow the start of the Hebridean Way was nothing short of breathtaking. The beaches were simply spectacular, with water so exquisitely blue it felt surreal, and sand as soft and white as powdered sugar. Barra’s vast beach was a sight to behold, especially when the tide receded, revealing an expansive stretch of sand so wide it doubled as a runway for small aircraft. The ferry ride from Barra to Eriskay added to the magic of the day, as we glided past islands scattered across the sea like giant, whimsical mushrooms. It was an incredible beginning to the journey.”
Day 4 – South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist (Overnight in Lochmaddy)
Four islands and two causeways – check out my route on Komoot https://www.komoot.com/tour/1830459735
Each island, perhaps unsurprisingly is quite unique and special.
South Uist is so low lying it feels like your cycling on water. So many inlets & lochans. Quiet roads and small isolated cottages. Unspoilt nature. Incredibly flat /strong wind from the south which pushed us along beautifully. However, this fresh Atlantic breeze (wind) does keep the midges at bay.
I was struck my the very special ‘machair’, the rare and fragile grassland between sand dunes and moorland, which grows only on the exposed western coast of Scottish islands and parts of the Irish western coast.
machair
Cycled the causeway over to Benbecula. This island for me was all about sand dunes, and sandy verges. This is where we stopped at Culla Bay which was another incredibly beautiful unspoilt beach with pristine white sands & crystal clear waters.
We then continued along the causeway and briefly cycled over the very small island of Grimsay. Before reaching North Uist. The main feature was more about heathland looking very much like mainland Scotland in parts, a little bit more hilly but again so much water! Inlets and small lochans alongside the road.
50/50 water to land. The water cobalt blue. Long stretches of single track road - with many passing places.
Looking at our Strava profile it just looks completely surreal as if we’ve been cycling on water for half the day.
Culla Bay
Lochmaddy
Day 5 – North Uist to Berneray (overnight in Borve)
2 islands, one causeway – check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1833578682
Skirting west coast of the island. More lochans & heath covered hills. No trees, like much of these islands. Very strong wind / sadly not all tailwind.
Came across a huge tidal bay – Machleit, exposing white sands contrasted with the incredible blue skies.
Onward to Clachan Sands / another expansive unspoilt white sandy beach with turquoise waters before cycling across the causeway to the tiny island of Berneray.
Machine
Clachan Sands
Adventure continues in next blog…..
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