The Wild (and wet and windy) Atlantic Way - Ireland
- ann26154
- Sep 21
- 8 min read
Updated: Sep 23
How to describe 2 weeks cycling in Ireland. Beautiful, wild, rugged, green, wet, windy, sunny - usually in one day! Great Guinness & Irish coffee, friendly locals, delicious salmon, quiet & sleepy villages, lively pubs, phenomenal live music & talented musicians. Endless Atlantic coastline, ferocious seas & countless coastal islands.
270 miles, over 14,000 feet, mountain passes, coastal roads, dramatic sea cliff roads, quiet county lanes, rural cycling paths, & the odd busy road. Following the Eurovelo 1 route for many of these miles.
We cycled from Killarney around the Ring of Kerry, through Gap of Dunloe, Moll’s gap, Killarney National Park, Kenmare, Kerry Cliffs, the Skellig Ring, Valentia Island, Dingle Bay, Dingle, Slea Head, Connor Pass on to Tralee.
Can’t pick a favourite day or spot - over 450 photos taken. Recommend Ireland, but pack waterproofs, get used to cycling in wind & pack your sense of humour.
Simply glorious, unforgettable & very special experience with lovely friends….
Getting there
We caught the train (with bikes) to Holyhead in Wales where we caught the ferry to Dublin and from there is a short ride to the city centre. The next day we caught the train to Killarney in Country Kerry to start our adventure.
Day 1 of cycling – around Killarney National Park
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2554328731
A great day’s riding on beautiful quiet traffic free paths through the park. Loch Leane, Ross Castle, Torc Falls, over to the Brickeen Bridge and the meeting of the lakes. Not forgetting a stop off 15th century Muckross Abbey and hidden inside the Abbey ruins an ancient yew tree standing there for over 400 years. Throughout Killarney we see the traditional Irish horse drawn ‘jaunting carriages’ for sightseers to explore.
What a wonderful start to our Irish cycling adventure.
Day 2 – Killarney to Kenmare via Gap of Dunloe and Moll’s Gap
Check out my ride on Komoot -https://www.komoot.com/tour/2556793670
Despite the rain and wind gusts of 38mph, I would regard Gap of Dunloe as one of my highlights in Ireland. So spectacular, and yes very steep! The Gap is a, glacier-carved mountain pass with a narrow, winding single-lane road running for about 11km through the valley, connecting 5 lakes via the River Loe.
Many ‘jaunting’ horse and traps made for an interesting traffic situation to avoid! luckily buses are not allowed on this section of road and it was relatively traffic free. Despite the conditions there is no doubting the beauty of this mountain pass & valley.
Once at the top, we had a well deserved easy descent down to Lord Brandon‘s cottage on the edge of loch Leane - had my first Irish coffee of the holiday which went down a treat.
Onward on a very quiet section of road - relatively flat after steepness of the gap, before we reach our next big climb - Molls gap which was another remote but incredibly beautiful hill climb.
We arrived, absolutely drenched, at our accommodation early. Happy pig - excellent B&B and understanding host as we dripped everywhere! Good day to test the waterproofs!
Day 3 – Kenmare to Waterville
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2560948507
Heading out of Kenmare the first 15 miles was a relatively long slog on road, intermingled with views of the Kenmare River before reaching the pretty village of Sneem. Once out of Sneem the views really started opening up, sweeping green countryside on both sides, before our first glimpses of Atlantic coast. Frequent photo stops today, especially as rain had stopped and the sun arrived. The coastline is just so stunning, with the serene beaches, rocky outcrops and many islands off the shore.
Waterville’s claim to fame is that Charlie Chaplin lived here for a while (there is a statue of him on the front).
Day 4 – Waterville to Portmagee
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2563253234
What a day! Coastal roads, chocolate factory, one ridiculous hill climb and breathtaking coastal cliffs.
We headed out of Portmagee around the quiet and picturesque Ballinskelligs Bay to the ruins of Ballinskelligs Abbey. A 12th-century ruined Augustinian priory, founded for monks who left Skellig Michael due to Viking attacks and poor weather on the island.
Through more sweeping countryside on the route ‘Skellig Ring’ before reaching more outstanding coastal views and our first glimpse of the Skellig Islands.
A popular place to stop on the Skellig Ring is the Skellig Chocolate Factory opposite St. Finian’s Bay with its many diverse flavours of chocolate, all made on site.
We needed that chocolate though for Coomanaspig Pass – not for the fainthearted with gradients reaching 15-20% and even 26% at one point. Just breathtakingly beautiful, but with this mountain pass reaching nearly 800 feet it is one of Ireland's highest car-accessible points!
But once you get to the top!! I’d say it was worth it. Panoramic views of the peninsula, the Atlantic ocean, the Skellig Islands, the Kerry Cliffs, and down to Valentia Island and Portmagee.
A fast descent takes us down the other side to the Kerry Cliffs, wild, windswept and awe inspiring. You climb high (on foot) – around 1000 feet to get the best views and selfies.
From there it is a short hop to Portmagee, the pretty fishing village where you can take boat trips out to the Skelligs.
Day 5 – Portmagee to Cahersiveen
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2565342558
We were meant to go to Skellig Michael today. A UNESCO World Heritage twin peaked rocky island, originally a 6th century monastic settlement, but more well known recently for being in the Star Wars Films. It is also well known for being a haven for thousands of sea birds. Sadly, sea conditions meant the trip was cancelled so we spent a leisurely day exploring Valentia Island.
Valentia apart from being very beautiful is famous for being the western end of the first trans-Atlantic cable in 1866! We visited the Museum which was very interesting.
We also walked to the highest point on the island - Geokuan summit, with panoramic views of Dingle Bay, the Skellig and Blasket Islands and out to the Atlantic. The Foghur cliffs were also worth seeing –views of the islands and Dingle Peninsula. The island has some lovely quiet roads. You then take a short car ferry ride back to the mainland before heading over Cahersiveen and we also visited an ironage fort just outside town.
Day 6 -Cahersiveen to Killorgan
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2567026134
The feature of this day for me was to be able to once again get off the busier road onto some extremely quiet lanes on the EV Route 1. Miles and miles of single track undulations through beautiful green Irish rural countryside. The EV routes are to be recommended!
Stopped at a picturesque bridge and stream as we approached the small town of Glenbeigh.
After a delightful lunch, we decided to head out to the Rossbeigh spit & strand. Oh my goodness it was windy out there - we know now why the wild Atlantic Way is so aptly named. It is undeniably beautiful but the weather conditions make this coastline rugged a rugged & dramatic type of beauty.
Similarly windy for the beach at Cromane, which we also visited on our way to the small pretty town of Killorgan. Had a wonderful meal in an Irish restaurant and a great guesthouse stay.
Day 7 – Killorgan to Dingle
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2568878983
Much busier toad today as we left Killorgan and entered the Dingle Peninsula . To be fair though car drivers have been quite patient. But it was nice to get off the busy road for short sessions today.
Today was a mental challenge as much as it was a physical challenge. We were heading west along the peninsula into an extremely strong westerly headwind - that combined with spells of biting rain / sleet on a busy road proved that the challenge of the day would be one of sheer grit and determination.
For the first time in our journey, we’ve been able to look across the water to the Ring of Kerry Peninsula on the other side of the inlet.
We went onto the Inch peninsula and strand to be welcomed to by a bit of a sandstorm ! I can imagine how popular and beautiful this beach would be on a sunny day though.
We then joined some very rural roads, passing the medieval Garfinny Bridge before descending into the town of Dingle, with its fishing harbour and pretty coloured houses and lively atmosphere – being the gateway to the Dingle Peninsula.
Day 8 – Exploring Dingle Peninsula
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2570691952
Super spectacular- the wild Atlantic Way did not disappoint!
An out and back cycle to Slea head and Dunquin Pier. We cycle along the coastal road with sheer drops down the side, around every corner the view gets more magnificent. Crashing waves against the rocks, sheer cliffs and rocky outcrops with eye catching views out to the Blasket Islands.
Advice was to go early to avoid the cars and tourist coaches. we were at Dunquin Pier before the traffic really started to arrive. Cars and buses are advised to go clockwise around the peninsula which meant an anticlockwise return and that despite the constant stream of cars coming towards us, we were only passed twice. Fantastic ride back into Dingle with a tailwind!
Day 9 – Dingle to Tralee
Check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2573494525
Connor Pass is the highest mountain passes in Ireland, and provides the most dramatic and scenic way of crossing from the north to south coast of the Dingle Peninsula. This narrow, twisting road runs for over 7 miles and its over 4 miles of ascent alone. The views from the road are breathtaking, with a glaciated landscape of mountains, lakes and a broad sweeping view of the valley below and the Atlantic and Dingle behind you.
Once on the other side of the mountain with a cracking descent on some narrow sections, you then follow some very quiet lanes past Castle Gregory. The coastline on the side of the peninsula on the north side of peninsula is very different - beautiful beaches not as wild and rugged as the westerly and southern side.
Stopped at a beautiful beach called Maharees beach. The last 8 miles of the route into Tralee was an incredibly busy road & the first time in 260 miles & 9 days of cycling in Ireland we experienced some aggressive driving & close passes. Otherwise the drivers have been very considerate & patient and we can’t judge our experience by this one section of road.
Our last full day of cycling. We have covered some ground and seen so much, the countryside, the cliffs, the beaches, the islands, the coastal roads and views, the lovely little towns.
Final few days in Ireland
We catch a train from Tralee back to Dublin, very friendly train staff and seamless journey. There are cycle paths in Dublin, but sometimes I felt that like the cycle planning team for Dublin City centre got together in a pub one afternoon, got drunk on Guinness & then planned the Dublin cycle path network. Good bits & some sections which don’t really flow.
Great couple of days in Dublin, visiting the lively bars in Temple Bar, listening to fantastic live musicians and a visit to the Book of Kells Experience at Trinity College as well as the Guiness Storehouse, are both musts if visiting Dublin.
Recommendation
Definitely go! Pack your waterproofs and your sense of humour, take lots of photos, take the time to talk to the locals and taste the local delicacies and follow the EV routes where you can.
