Hebridean Way – part 2 – The Northern Isles
See link to Part 1 – the Southern isles - https://www.veloann.com/post/the-hebridean-way-the-southern-isles-part-1
South, North Harris and Lewis
These are technically one landmass but regarded as 2 isles due to the history and geology of the region, which meant Harris and Lewis were for all intents and purposes, 2 islands with different cultures and heritage.
Day 6 – Berneray to South Harris (overnight in Tarbet)
2 islands – one ferry – check out my ride on Komoot https://www.komoot.com/tour/1835818468
Caught our next ferry across the sound of Harris (around 1 hour). Today was the first day where the weather came in and it was very grey to start with.
We had attempted to get to West Beach on Berneray but no success and there were lots of midges first thing.
Over on Harris it was very different again, much more mountainous rocky & barren. But my goodness the bays! Unbelievable.
Isle of Harris
The first one we stopped at was Scarista. Beautiful unspoilt sand dunes & another remote white sandy beach.
Luskentyre Bay! Words really don’t do it justice. See photos, which also don’t do it proper justice.
Luskentyre
Cycling along for miles and miles hugging the coastline, spectacular bay after bay. Then along a narrow single track road to Luskentyre beach, looking out towards the island of Taransay.
We then had a long steep climb towards Tarbet. At the top, there was an amazing lunar style landscape with rocky outcrops & boggy terrain. This was a filming location for 2001 a space Odyssey and I can see why.
top of the climb, lunar landscape
Amazing fast descent into Tarbet. Harris very different from the other islands so far.
Day 7 – North Harris to Callinish, Lewis
check out my ride on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1837844956
It rrained first thing but cleared by 11. Long steep climb out of Tarbet - Col du Mhorghain. The rocky / boggy landscape slowly turning more heath covered on faster more busy roads.
Can already start to feel the difference between the south and the north. Long narrow spectacular sea loch hugging the road - Loch Eireasort. Feeling much more populated, and much more mountainous. Views over Loch Seaford.
Rolling roads through moorland where the road stretches out as far as you can see.
Struck by the majestic beauty of an endless landscape of lochs in an expanse of peat bog — quite beautiful in its own way. Somewhere along the way we formally passed into the Isle of Lewis.
We then headed to the Callanish stones – an ancient stone circle dating back to 4000 BC. Our accommodation was very nearby, (a wonderful B&B with outstanding hospitality, our favourite accommodation of the trip - we found out later he is a TV Chef! http://www.caledonia.tv/fuine-series-8/), so we visited the stones again at sunset – very special.
Day 8 - Callinish to Butt of Lewis
This was the final day of the official HW route, although we still had more cycling after that.
Check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1840253019
Lots of interesting sight seeing on our route today.
The first was Dun Carloway broch, dated from 2300 to 1900 years ago. This was an ancient house of what would have been a local chieftain.
Highland cattle alongside the road
Onward to the Blackhouses- houses established towards the end of the 19th century with the last occupant leaving in 1974. Blackhouses at both Gearrannan and Arnol. In the black houses, the people & the animals used to share the house to make it warmer.
On the side of the road we come across the famous, Bragan Whale bone. In 1920 a whale washed up onto the coast of Bragan Bay with a harpoon through its head trailed by 50 feet of rope. Huge jawbone and now a local treasure.
Continuing along relentless stretches of road for as far as you can see. Vast expanse of moorland all the way towards the northerly point of the island. The coast to your left side and the vast expense of the Moorland to your right side.
A Spectacular beauty point at The Butt of Lewis, with the waves of the Atlantic crashing against the rocky cliffs.
We finished !! (the official route), 260 miles of cycling with diversions.
We all feel a great sense of achievement – so much diversity and beauty over those 260 miles.
Day 9 – Cross to Stornoway, Lewis
Last full day of cycling on the islands. – check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1841892095
Cycling across the Black Moor to the capital of OE, Stornoway. Long stretches of rolling road where you can see miles into the distance either side of the road. The wide expanse of the Black Moor appears barren, but in fact is a rich in peat and brimming with bio diversity.
the Black Moor
Arrived in Stornoway (our first roundabout and traffic lights since the mainland) and it was incredibly busy, crowds everywhere. We learnt that this was as a huge cruise liner was docked in the town.
Stornoway, capital of OE
Took a lovely leisurely cycle trip around the coast of Stornaway, through the castle grounds.
Stornoway, a very pretty harbour town, with lots of shops and coffee places and very busy compared to anywhere else we had been in the OE.
Day 10-12 - Getting home!
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/1846486181
Ullapool Harbour
The final few days of getting home involved a ferry over to Ullapool on the mainland. Cycling from Ullapool to Garve train station, before onward travel to Inverness, Perth, Edinburgh before eventually getting to Milton Keynes. Basically 3 days to get home.
If you are in Ullapool, you must check out the Seafood Shack!
The Hebridean Way – the official route is 185 miles, but we cycled 330 miles over the 12 days. This is one cycling route which will take some beating! My favourite and 2000% recommended.