Cycling the Camino Way – Francés route
- ann26154
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 12 hours ago
The "Camino Way" is a network of pilgrimage routes collectively known as the Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James. These trails lead to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain, believed to house the tomb of the apostle St. James.
We chose to cycle a section of the Francés Way – from Leon to Santiago. What an incredible experience we had. One I would totally recommend.
Over the 6 days we cycled close to 350km and climbed 19,000 feet.
Day 1 of cycling – Leon to Astorga
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2232010771
Leaving Leon from its impressive cathedral and the beautiful mediaeval city, you cycle several miles through some uninspiring outskirts through urban and retail areas before you reach the countryside. We then cycle on quiet country tracks through pretty countryside with wildflowers.
The yellow arrows and yellow scallop shells and Saint James Crosses mark our way.
Over our days of cycling we pass countless churches & albergues (where pilgrims can take shelter & get food). We collect stamps in our unique Camino passport called a credencial. We wear scallops on our bikes to signal our Camino pilgrimage.
We managed to avoid the lunchtime hail storm. Before departing again with at least two hours of sunshine before the heavens opened again as we approached Astorga. Passing over the Medieval bridge at Hospital Ortego before arrival in the historic town of Astorga in pouring rain.
Day 2 – Astorga to Ponferreda
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2235383209
Today we cycle to the highest point on the Camino Way (of all the routes), the Iron Cross at Cruz de Ferro at 1505m. This is a significant climb and said to be one of the most magical places on the road where people traditionally leave a stone from home. There is a cross with very large pile of stones left there by thousands of pilgrims.
A pilgrimage is meant to be challenging and our challenge has been the weather conditions. The first 4 days of our cycle we experienced almost constant rain. Today’s ride has been some of the worst conditions I’ve ever cycled in, no visibility freezing cold. Windy – a very challenging day on the bike.
However, what is special is the shared sense of journey from the countless fellow pilgrims on the trails. Everyone is friendly and wishes each other ‘Buen Camino’.
The traditional Camino way is a dirt track and much of our cycling route today was on the road as the track was not suitable for cyclists.
After the high point (in complete fog) we begin a very long descent down into Ponferrada. We took refuge in El Acebo albergue partway down the descent to have some food and try and warm up.
The descent went on for several kilometres and there were quite stunning views on the way down where we finally regained some visibility.
Ponferrada is a very pretty medieval town with a very impressive castle, once a Knights Templar castle.
Day 3 – Ponferreda to O’Cebreiro (1300m)
Check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2237579899
Another challenging day / especially the last 5 miles where we ascended around 2000 feet in pouring rain. A very tough climb even with e-assist bikes as ascend further and further up the mountain and into the clouds.
Today’s route again was a combination of off-road paths and road sections. We visit the very pretty village of Villa Franca, where we had lunch.
One of the features of the first half of our cycle is seeing so many of the churches with storks nesting with their chicks in the Belfry/ church towers, very distinctive and interesting.
O’Cebreiro is a special place on the pilgrims route, I found it so magical, it is remote and small – only Camino travellers come here. There are pallozas - thatched roof round shaped houses which make it feel like something out of Lord of the Rings. The Church of Santa Maria a Real is the site of a miracle and pilgrims leave candles at the shrine.
The air clears briefly that evening to afford us a sensational view of the valley.
Over the last three days we have cycled 107 miles and 8700 feet.
Day 4 - O’Cebreiro to Portomarin
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2240387676
A very challenging day today. A much longer day with 48 miles cycled as we accidentally went on a trail for hikers rather than the cycling route. This trail was pretty much impassible on bikes so involved a lot of pushing of heavy bikes uphill - and we then needed a diversion.
It started out freezing cold and foggy at the top of the mountain from O’Cebreiro and we didn’t descend straight away. So we started in rain and zero visibility again.
We then entered onto an off road Camino Trail and had 2000 feet of descent on a very beautiful gravel trail however it was also very tricky in parts, as it was very rocky, slippy and rutted due to all the wet weather. It was certainly a test of our bike handling skills today.
The trail ran alongside the edge of the hillside with stunning views across the valley, we pass the official ‘100km to go’ sign.
Apart from our diversion, most of our route today was off-road and involved quite a bit of technical riding. We are absolutely covered in mud and soaking wet as we had to go down extremely wet muddy slippery trails. But no doubt a beautiful trail, quite different from the previous days as we cycled off-road through very pretty countryside.
Day 5 – Portomarin to Azura
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2242626446
After a week in Spain, this is the first day that we’ve not had any rain. It’s so nice arriving at your accommodation, not soaking wet.
Made a huge difference to our mood to get sunshine!
Today was a great day on the bike again it was mostly all off-road on the Camino Trail itself. Some sections were quite tricky but most of it was fabulous cycling, plenty of ups and downs again - really appreciating the bike!
The climb out of Portomarin was something else. It was very steep on a rocky trail and due to the time of day was extremely busy with people which added to the challenge.
Once again, passing hundreds of pilgrims from all over the world with the greeting ‘Buen Camino’ as we pass each one.
We stopped much more today at small churches and albergues. One notable stop was a former Knights Templar hospital which became a Benedictine chapel and now an elderly blind man mans the chapel giving people stamps and holy cards and greeting each pilgrim individually.
Day 6 - final day – Azura to Santiago de Compostela
check out my route on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/2245085137
Sunshine all day!
To qualify as a pilgrim you need to walk at least 100km or cycle at least 200km. So there were more and more walkers as we get closer to Santiago, that is tricky cycling, but we were considerate and so were they.
Once we reached Santiago, we go to the traditional finish – the Plaza Obradoiro with the Cathedral as a backdrop with hundreds of other pilgrims, how amazing to finish in such an awe inspiring setting.
Pilgrims want to get their ‘Compostela’ a stamp and certificate to verify your pilgrimage. We thought it was a straightforward stamp at the Cathedral but you need to go the official ‘Pilgrims office’ enter all your details on the computer before you get your final Compostela stamp and certificate. Done!
We finished by attending the Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral. Capacity of cathedral is 1200 and it was full to the rafters! And they have several masses each day. What an incredible experience, especially watching the famous swinging incense bontafumuier and visiting the temple of the apostle Saint James.
Santiago what a beautiful old town – visited by thousands of pilgrims not only each year, quite literally millions of pilgrims over hundreds of years.
My final thoughts
Despite the horrid conditions in the first 4 days we found happiness in each other’s company & the kindness of strangers & fellow travellers. That shared sense of camaraderie and journey with hundreds and hundreds of people from all over the world, is hard to imagine or describe.
Completing this challenge was a once in a life time experience, so memorable (for good and bad reasons) but one I will always remember with special fondness.
Buen Camino!
