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Slovenia – Land of castles, caves and forest trails

Slovenia, what a perfect cycling destination. We didn't do a huge mileage every day, but it was perfect! as it gave us plenty of time to really explore with my cycling buddy Christina.


With friendly locals, proud of their country, the expansive cycle path network, quiet roads and considerate motorists; from the beauty of Lake Bled, magnificent castles, caves, forests, rolling countryside and the stunning coastline, it is a gem!


Beautiful Lake Bled
Beautiful Lake Bled

Arrival


Our first day we explored the beautiful city of Ljubljana. Slovenia itself is a small country and its capital city is charming and small enough to walk around and easily explore. It is also a new country, declaring its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991.


A boat trip on the Ljubljanica River was one way to try and escape the heatwave conditions, as we travelled under Ljubljana’s famous three bridges. A trip on the funicular up to our first castle of the trip, Ljubljana Castle and views over the city.


On the Sunday we took a day trip out to Slovenia’s most famous location, Lake Bled. It is something straight out of a fairly tale movie. Perfectly clear emerald green waters of this glacial lake, with a backdrop of the Julian Alps and a picturesque island with the Church of the Assumption. A visit to the hilltop castle is a must as the panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountains are out of this world.


Do not go to Slovenia without visiting Lake Bled. The lake was busy with families swimming, boating and we rented bikes for a quick spin around the lake to view it from every angle.


Ljubljana
Ljubljana
Lake Bled from the cliff top castle
Lake Bled from the cliff top castle
this is not AI!
this is not AI!
beautiful spot
beautiful spot

Day 3/first day of full cycling - Ljubljana to Vrhnika

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - https://www.komoot.com/tour/3072045664


We collect our hire bikes from the local Slovenian agent -Helia, which I would recommend for anyone considering cycling in Slovenia. Our first full day on the bikes is a very flat and gentle day of cycling on very quiet roads. There is an amazing cycle path network in Ljubljana and Slovenia. It certainly sets it up perfectly for a cycling destination. We eventually leave the cycle path for the gravel trails running through the marshes (Ljubljansko barje), a 160 km² wetland plain that was once a lake and is now biodiversity rich. However, it was very dry when we were there and the only biodiversity we experienced was persistent insects trying to bite us.


We then stop off at a Lake Podpec a small beautiful circular karst lake. Famous for its limestone bedrock underground caves and disappearing rivers giving the word karst to the world.

Ljubljansko barje
Ljubljansko barje
gravel trails through Ljubljansko barje
gravel trails through Ljubljansko barje
Lake Podpec
Lake Podpec
Old Castle in Krajinski Park Ljubljansko Barje
Old Castle in Krajinski Park Ljubljansko Barje

Day 4 - Vrhnika to Postojna

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - link here


Much hillier today as we head into the mountains up from Vrhnika. We cycle on quiet gravel paths through the forest of Inner Carniola and onward to Planina and along the Planina Karst Plateau. One of the highlights of our trip was the awe inspiring Predjama Castle. Again, like something out of a fairy tale book, a castle built into the rock. It is the largest cave castle in the world and exploring the inside of the castle is a wonder - where man-made building meets cave system. Never seen anything like it. Right at the back of the castle, there is an escape route through the cave system. Absolutely fascinating and a must visit.

 

The weather has been incredibly hot with temperatures 33° by 11 am and rising to 35, but just before we leave the castle, thunderstorms and lightning and incredibly heavy rain breaks the temperature. We managed to avoid cycling in the heaviest of the rain although the last 7 miles to Postojna are a sprint. 


forest trails out of Vrhnika
forest trails out of Vrhnika
Planina Karst Plateau
Planina Karst Plateau
Predjama Castle
Predjama Castle
at the back of the castle where it meets the original cave
at the back of the castle where it meets the original cave
views from the castle
views from the castle

 Day 5 - Postojna to Kodreti

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - link here

 

We start our day by heading back up to the Postojna caves. You board a train which takes you 3.8 km into this vast cave karst system - 24km in length. This is the most visited cave in Europe with massive subterranean caverns. There are over 10,000 caves in Slovenia, as the bedrock is largely limestone. This type of landscape is known as Karst, a region in Slovenia where these geological features were first studied.


The caves are definitely worth a visit, they are truly a natural wonder. I am in awe of the original explorers who discovered these cave systems. The caves have much biodiversity, including the salamander and the olm (human fish) who live in the  dark and can go years without eating.


Once we leave the caves, we then cycle on a gravel trail up to a hilltop top town of Strane, where there is supposedly the oldest yew tree in Slovenia. The roads like many we have travelled on, are very quiet and picturesque. We then speed down a very steep descent and through the Vipava Valley – a wine region, running alongside the Nanos limestone mountain ridge.


The Nanos a limestone mountain range with Predjama castle and the caves on one side and the Slovenian and Italian coasts on the other. Due its location it is famous for its strong Bora winds which blow from the mountains down to the sea. We cycle past vineyards before staying in a vineyard overnight. Massive thunderstorms again this afternoon, which thankfully we missed.


Postojna caves (pics do not do it justice- more on Komoot)
Postojna caves (pics do not do it justice- more on Komoot)
along Vipava valley - Nanos in background
along Vipava valley - Nanos in background
view from our vineyard hotel
view from our vineyard hotel
view from our vineyard hotel
view from our vineyard hotel
oldest yew tree in Slovenia
oldest yew tree in Slovenia
more quiet lanes and countryside
more quiet lanes and countryside

 Day 6 - Kodreti to Divaca

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - link here


Heading out of the vineyard up to the medieval hilltop village of Stanjel famous for its castle and gardens (the Ferrari gardens) with stunning views over the hills and Vipava Valley.

Along more quiet roads before reaching the Lipica stud farm – world famous as the home of the dressage horses, Lippizan. 


The Lipizzan horse, one of the oldest cultural horse breeds in Europe and the world, has been developed at the Lipica Stud Farm since its foundation in 1580. Today, the Lipizzan horse is known mainly as a white horse. However, the horses we call white are actually mostly grey. Lipizzan horses are born dark, but they soon turn grey because of a mutated gene. They have been breeding the same line of horses here for over 400 years. 

We get to meet a Lippizan horse and hear more about this elegant and distinctive horse breed.


Onward then to our overnight stay in Divaca.

Stanjel hilltop town
Stanjel hilltop town
view from Stanjel
view from Stanjel
meeting a Lippizaner
meeting a Lippizaner

 Day 7 - Divaca to Muggia, Italy

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - link here


Another day, another cave system. A visit to the UNESCO Škocjan caves. This one will blow you away. It’s really hard to describe how absolutely expansive this underground canyon is, it is the largest underground river canyon in Europe with the Reka River running through it.


As you descend deeper and deeper into the cave network, you reach the huge subterranean cavern and honestly, you feel as if you have been transported into a Lord of the Rings film, including Gandolf’s bridge. Breathtaking with spectacular gorges and chambers. You are not permitted to take photos in the caves, and the ones from the gallery do not do it justice.


Once outside the cave the Škocjan national park is also stunning and worth a walk around.

We continue on more gravel trails, forest paths before finally we see the coast and the sea and very fast descent down into Italy. We cross the border into Italy after admiring the incredibly impressive Črni Kal Viaduct and road bridge over the valley.


We reach the charming Italian seaside port of Muggia. A cheeky afternoon boat trip to Trieste, famous for its magnificent Venetian style squares and canal (although not on Venice scale).


Am struck by the number of people sunbathing on the footpath and concrete breakwater. The water looks very inviting, but no beach to speak of.


Škocjan caves
Škocjan caves
Škocjan caves national park
Škocjan caves national park
Škocjan caves national park
Škocjan caves national park
Škocjan caves
Škocjan caves
Italia border
Italia border
charming port town of Muggia, Italy
charming port town of Muggia, Italy

 Day 8 - Muggia to Piran

Check out my route and more pics on Komoot - link here


We travel along the Italian coast before re-entering Slovenia after only a few miles. In fact our route hugs the coast all day. We cycle past vineyards and the busy port of Koper before a lovely stop in the pretty marina and town of Izola.


We then join the Parenzana cycle path, a disused railway line complete with 2 long traffic free tunnels. Past the Parenzana vineyards and then alongside a canal and small harbour out to Sečovlje Salt Pans. Piran owes it success over centuries to salt. This is where the world-famous fleur de sel (flower of salt) is still produced today using age-old methods.


We reach the most beautiful coastal town in Slovenia, Piran. Distinctive with its Venetian style architecture, its lighthouse, Tartini Square and the clock tower of St Geroge’s church, where you can get expansive views over the burnt orange roofs of Piran and out to sea.


We stay in the Piran Hotel, definitely our nicest hotel of the trip, right next to the sea and with a view from our room like we were out at sea. A wonderful final night meal of seafood finished off with an unexpected display of Slovenian & Mediterranean folk dancing in Tartini Square that evening.


Our final day is trip back to Ljubljana airport and home.


Izola from Parenzana trail
Izola from Parenzana trail
Parenzana vineyards
Parenzana vineyards
Valeta tunnel on the Parenzana trail
Valeta tunnel on the Parenzana trail
on the way to the salt pans
on the way to the salt pans
Piran harbour
Piran harbour
we've finished 300km across Slovenia - Capital to Coast
we've finished 300km across Slovenia - Capital to Coast

 

 
 
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